20^th Newsletter.

 

Canberra to Sunshine Coast.

 

Our stay in Canberra proved to be a very enjoyable time indeed, catching up with both friends and family.  Our first engagement was to the National Gallery of Australia, which was hosting the Masterpieces from Paris Exhibition; I am probably the only person on earth who is game enough or inappropriate enough to admit that I did not enjoy the exhibition for a number of reasons.  Firstly I have seen the art work before many years ago at the Louve so the work was not new to me, secondly because I am not an art critic the uniqueness of the work was perhaps lost on me and thirdly the amount of people allowed through the exhibition at any one time was ridiculous, dodging people for a glimpse of the work became part of the course.

 

We also took a trip through the High Court of Australia, which was interesting in both its architecture and its grandeur.  Canberra Glassworks was also a fascinating place to visit offering an opportunity to watch craftsmen at work and a chance to view and buy many finished products.  Beaver Gallery was another venue to view beautiful glass pieces and in fact my aunt bought me a stunning Red and Cream glass platter, which I can’t wait to put on my coffee table when we get home.   A shopping trip to the Canberra Centre with my sister and aunty was a must although not much was bought, a lot of wares were viewed and discuses.  We also caught a movie The Blind Side that was really a great way to spend a couple of hours and a good laugh.  Finally it was good to catch up with friends Carmel and Mario and enjoy a meal together.

 

Tuesday 9^th March. After spending five days in Canberra it was time to head to Sydney and the Lane Cove River Tourist Park situated in Lane Cove National Park was recommended to us and we were impressed with what it offered. The sites in the park were situated in bush surroundings and reasonably spacious, the amenities blocks were surprisingly new and very presentable.  It was however quite a ways to a corner store, local shops etc, not really a walking situation. We quickly became acquainted with the public transport system and soon there was no stopping Ken with a $2.50 seniors ticket.  While I enjoyed a stroll through Sydney city shops Ken took a ferry ride to Parramatta, meeting up later for a walk to Darling Harbour.  On another day we enjoyed a ferry ride to Manly and returned in time to catch the movie Precious at Circular Quay.  We also had a chance to catch up with my nephew Strathmore and his family, which was a lovely evening in their new house.  Ken’s aunty who lives at New Port was another day of catching up with people and places we haven’t seen for a while. All in all it’s been a great time in Sydney and we have both agreed we must come again before long. Received the news that our tenants are moving out two weeks early so our trip home will be a hasty one.

 

Tuesday 16^th. Left Sydney and headed North on Highway 1 hoping to make Myall Lake our home for a couple of nights.  We took the Bombah Point Road south east of Bulahdelah into Korsman Campground in Myall Lake National Park to find it almost deserted, lucky us.  The weather is really beautiful and Ken is excited about the prospect of sailing on the Lake as he missed out last time we were here because the weather was terrible.  There are Monitor Lizards everywhere as I was to discover while sitting outside the van reading my book, I heard a rustling near by and looked down to find a huge Lizard coming out from underneath the van, I nearly died of fright.  We enjoyed a quiet evening of being alone with a sky full of stars, not much opportunity for that in the city.

Wednesday 17^th.  A beautiful day for motoring around for Ken in his wee dingy, however not much opportunity for a sail as there is little to no wind.  I took the time to catch up on some reading and to soak up the ambiance of this beautiful quiet piece of nature while we have the chance.

 

Thursday 18^th. The weather was still with us as we drove to Port Macquarie via Taree where we stopped for a few more supplies and lunch.  North of Port Macquarie we turned off at Pembrooke and made our way to our friends Sonia and Grey’s house, who live on acreage in an old heritage listed homestead.  It was great to see them and catch up with their news after a year’s absence.  Friday we just enjoyed being in this beautiful environment and later in the day drove to Bonny Hills to join Sonia at her outdoor farmers markets which she organizes for the local community.  Later we enjoyed fish and chips at the local tavern and experienced some country hospitality.

 

Saturday 20^th. Left Pembrooke at about 9.30, which is early for us however we had arranged to meet friends Ken and Jillian for lunch at Coffs Harbour and its usually good to be on time.  A great lunch on the water at Mangrove Jacks was had by all and for me I haven’t laughed so much in along time so totally enjoyed the day.  We chose to drive on to Corinda Caravan Park for the evening as we had fond memories of our stay there last year.  It’s a very beautiful spot high on a cliff overlooking a stunning expanse of white sand and Blue Ocean.

 

Sunday 21^st.  Drove along the coast road and stopped at Maclean for lunch as we did on our way south at this time last year.  It made me realize just how much I am missing Wendal on our way back home, it should be the three of us making this journey.  We drove through Ballina and looked at the old house I used to own at Broadwater, it sure has seen better days.  Headed then to Suffolk Park to find Ken’s brother Max’s new house, and a lovely warm welcome from Max and his new lady friend Terry.  Fortunately for us there is a large grassed area adjacent to the street in front of Max’s house that was able to accommodate our van so we didn’t have to hassle with a caravan park.

 

Monday 22^nd.  Being so close to Lennox Head it was a wonderful opportunity to catch up with Danielle and Alexandra old friends who live in the area.  They invited us for lunch in their lovely new home and discovered what a talented artist Danielle has become.  It is roughly 20 years since we have seen each other so a lot has changed along the way.

 

Tuesday 23^rd. Still at Suffolk Park and awaiting the arrival of Max’s daughter Jessie and her family whom are expected for lunch.  This has really been old friends and family week for us.  We tore ourselves away at about 4pm and headed to South Port to spend time with our dear friend Moira, who as always made us feel so welcome.

 

Wednesday 24^th. Ken and I decided this was a good opportunity to have a look at new lounges as the Gold Coast certainly has many stores to choose from.  We had spotted a setting in Sydney, which we really liked, so decided to visit the same store on the coast.  After looking at what seemed like hundreds of leather lounges we finally made our decision and put down a deposit.  Unfortunately we will not be able to take delivery until early May but that is life I guess.  

 

Thursday 25th. Did some washing and house keeping before heading to Brisbane as we figured the lady of the house wouldn’t throw us out for staying after 10am.  Booked into Nestle Inn Tourist Village at Tingalpa in Brisbane because we wanted to catch up with our son Geordie for the evening.  He has a lovely new apartment at East Brisbane with views of both the city and the river and appears to be very comfortable indeed.  We meet at his apartment and soon found a great Indian restaurant within walking distance where we went for dinner.  It’s very good to see Geordie so happy and well.

 

Friday 26^th. Leaving Brisbane at 10am we headed up the coast towards Mooloolah where we were hoping to spend the evening with friends Donna and Ken.  Donna was already home so she helped us hook up to the power etc and then she and I decided to have some girl time exploring a store one of her friends has just opened.  Lots of things to buy and try on but not much that I was in need of just at the moment. We spent a lovely dinner together enjoying one of Donna’s great meals that we have all come to look forward to.

 

Saturday 27^th . Well today is the day we get the keys to our house back.  YES. YES.

As I dance into the Real Estate office and take possession again, it feels good.  Opening the downstairs door and walking into an empty house seems so strange after so many years of it being full of furniture and life.  It also strange just how big the house looks now, each room is much larger than I remember and it’s all quite daunting.  Thirteen months of living in a space much smaller than our bedroom has taken its toll, and I think it may take some time before we are ready to be comfortable with so much area around us.

 

It took a week before we felt comfortable enough to move back into the house again.  Little by little we had to take in the notion of space and a house that does not move.

This is the last of my blogs and by far the longest one to publish.  I want to thank anyone out there who has kept up with the reading, I hope you have enjoyed coming on our journey with us. It certainly has been both an education and a test of endurance with many highs and many lows especially for me.  Take care of yourselves and enjoy the ride.  Elizabeth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

19^th News Letter.

Jinabyne to Canberra.

We have thirteen days before we are due to catch up with my sister and aunty in Canberra, so we have decided to go back to the coast and make our way up the Princes Highway then back track along the Hume Highway to Canberra. The weather is lovely and we are in good spirits having enjoyed our time in the Snowy Mountains.

Saturday 20^th February. Driving down Brown Mountain you realize just how steep the decent is and how far it is to the bottom should the brakes fail, yes forever the optimist that’s me. It is however very beautiful and any glimpse of scenery was savored by me as the passenger, unfortunately Ken as the driver misses out on these occasions. On reaching the outskirts of Bega we turned North and our first town was Cobargo a charming old time working village established in 1829. We then took a detour from the Hwy and headed east to the 19^th century National Trust classified village of Central Tilba, and what a trip down memory lane that place is. The main street is lined with 19^th century weatherboard architecture, that is a treasure–trove of boutique galleries. Our favorite however was the 100 year old historic cheese factory where we were able to sample Tilba Tilba cheeses to our hearts content. We then moved on to the very picturesque town of Narooma and booked in to East Narooma Village Park. After settling in we took a walk along the water front and would you believe fresh Oysters just jumped out at Ken and it was a case of have to have.

Sunday 21^st. It is another beautiful day as we headed along the coast road visiting the town of Dalmeny, which has a great council headland park over looking Lake Mummuga. We then moved on to Toross Head, beautiful beaches and river inlet, however the caravan parks were very unappealing and expensive. Continuing on the coast road we drove through Broulee and Tomakin and then on to Batemans Bay. There was indeed a great many caravan parks to chose from so we did our usual drive by and decided on Batemans Bay Beach Resort, yes you guessed it is on the water. The town of Batemans Bay is situated on the Clyde River, which is dotted with a myriad of boats in all shapes, sizes and types, yes Kenny’s idea of heaven. After we parked the van we decided on a walk along the beach and then backtracked through town, a good hour and half later we made our way home. It ended up being a very hot day and we were both quite sun burnt after our walk.

Monday 22^nd. We have decided to stay another day, what the heck, we are not in a hurry and it is a nice park. Ken caught up with one of his relatives in the morning and was pleased that he had phoned her and found she was still in the area.

Tuesday 23^rd. Before leaving town we both needed haircuts so ask around and found a local lady who could fit us in. She did a nice job on our hair however she attacked my eyebrows with such vigor that I am left with pencil thin high arches. I look as though I am in a constant state of surprise, hopefully they will grow back before long.

We had a great time with her two lovely small dogs sitting in their respective red and black shiny vinyl lounge chairs, very cute.

Heading north again we turned off the highway at Termeil and headed to Bawley Point. A very beautiful coastline was offering but not much else to capture our attention so we moved on to Merry Beach and Murramarang National Park. The campground was very ordinary to say the least, with few powered sites and not all that were offered were working. The amenities block was in short a disgrace really dirty with cobwebs hanging off the ceiling collecting dirt the showers had not been cleaned since god knows when with mud on the floor in all the cubicles. It wasn’t until the next morning when we went to pay that we learned they were charging $32.00 for the privilege of staying there. I think its time they cleaned up their act big time.

A great walk over the headland to Merry Beach was invigorating particularly with the constant presence of the Kangaroos that are everywhere in this part of the world.

Wednesday 24^th. Our big move for the day was just down the road to Merry Beach Caravan Park and a great spot on the beach. It truly doesn’t get a lot better than this view and I slipped on the swimming costume and had a wee sun bake on the lovely beach.

Thursday 25^th. We decided to leave the van and drove to Burrill Lake where Ken had the opportunity to relive some moments from his child hood as he searched the neighborhood for familiar buildings and fishing spots that he and his family used to visit. We then moved on to the town of Ulladulla, which is indeed one of the most picturesque spots in the Shoalhaven area. Its boat Harbour is distinctive because of its rocky breakwater and is well known for its fresh seafood ‘right off the boat’. I must say this was not our experience and when we went to buy FISH & CHIPS from the harbour area we were offered Hoki fresh frozen from New Zealand. Took the opportunity to drive around the headlands while we didn’t have the van in toe and it certainly is a beautiful spot. Back to the van at Merry Beach to discover that a young family with four to six children had moved in (not sure if they were all theirs) and were to put it kindly disheveled. In other words their crap was everywhere including under our awning, not a good look Reg. I did my usual and entered the van as fast as possible, closed all the windows and pulled the blinds. Ken after referring to them as feral proceeded to go over and say hi and ‘oh no he was not put out by their mess, not a problem’ apparently, what kind of Bullshit is that I ask you?

Friday 26^th. We then left that piece of heaven to be enjoyed by the younger campers and their thousand children, (perhaps they have not heard of birth control for goodness sake) and before long arrived at Big 4 Bungalow Park at Burrill Lake. After parking the van in the allotted position Ken set too and got the dingy off the roof of the car for a sail and meanwhile I was able to talk on Skype to No 2 son in Canada and do a lot of reading.

Mid afternoon however an elderly gentleman and his wife arrived in there rather antiquated van, which they preceded to park directly behind us despite they’re being many other spots around available. They then put up a huge awning with uprights and stake’s every foot of the perimeter. I was later to discover they had parked so close to us that I was unable to walk around the back of our van as their stakes were pegged under our van with guy ropes attached. Both their hearing aids must have been left at home as I was the unfortunate precipitant of their entire afternoon conversation spoken at excessive volume, apparently Berryl couldn’t make head nor tail of what ever it was she was suppose to be doing, if she said it once she said it a thousand times ‘its broken Bruce’. Well we all know that Bruce was not listening, in fact he was ignoring pour Berryl so of course she had to say it countless times just so she could feel as though she was being heard. By the time Ken came back I was not a happy camper and of course he had had a lovely relaxing feel good day on the water and had a smile from ear to ear. I need at this point to make a statement I HATE CARAVAN PARKS and all those who dwell within.

Saturday 27^th. Today is the one-year anniversary of us moving into the van to live, or should I say we have been on the road for one year. OH MY GOD and what a year it has been.

We drove to Sussex inlet and then on to Jervis Bay all very pretty places but the parks looked very crowded and I could just feel Berryl and Bruce joining us as soon as we put down anchor so to speak. It struck us that Booderee National Park may offer a nice place to spend a couple of days unfortunately all the camp grounds were full by the time we got there so we turned around and headed north on a mission. We came across a lovely wooded spot with tall pine trees and a sign saying campground, so we strolled up to the OFFICE and knocked on the door. Some time later the door was reluctantly answered by the caretaker, who told us to have a look around and only come back if we wanted to stay. What a lovely spot it was, unfortunately the many millions of resident mosquitoes also agreed as the swarms started attacking us. We actually started hitting each other and ourselves as we made a hasty retreat back to the car. Back to the highway we decided was the best option and on to Nowra. Nowra Ski Park was our home for the evening a pretty place on the outskirts of town on the Shoalhaven River and it was minus mosquitoes.

Sunday 28^th. It rained quite a lot during the night so the ground was a bit muddy underfoot, which is not always good in a caravan traipsing through mud. We moved on to the town of Berry where we stopped to have a look around this quaint village. The main street was very busy with tourists. Sunday brunch seemed obligatory. I found a lovely bakery that sold Sour Dough bread and another nice lunch spot that made wonderful coffee. We then headed down to Shoalhaven Heads, which is such a pretty drive down winding roads through the green hills. More contented cows grazed in the pastures so we should really be looking for another cheese factory that sells yummy cheeses. After much debate we decided on Holiday Haven Coast Park on the Bay at Shoalhaven. A break in the weather allowed us to have a short walk on the beach and a meander through the town looking at the local architecture and foreshore.

Monday 1^st March. It is pouring with rain, which makes it difficult to see let alone appreciate this part of the country. We headed along the coast road through Gerroa and Gerringong, both with stunningly beautiful views of rolling green pastures merging with white sand beaches. Before we knew it we were in Kiama and enjoying its craggy headlands and sheltered coves along with the other natural wonders that make this place so special. Surf Beach Holiday Park sits on top of a beautiful headland surrounded by water on three sides, so we decided this was the place we needed to be. After unhooking the van we embarked on a drive to Shellharbour as we needed to buy a new electrical lead, because a Bush Rat or other unknown rodent had chewed away the insulation. Unfortunately Shellharbour will remain a mystery to us because the rain was so heavy our eyes had to focus on the road not the scenery as we had hoped.

Tuesday 2^nd. As the rain cleared we set off on a walk through town and a visit to the famous Blowhole.

We were very lucky that the Blowhole was at its best and we enjoyed a few of Kiama’s other local attractions which included Collins Street, a myriad of timber terraced houses dating from 1886 selling everything from beauty aids to chocolates and candles. After walking back to the van we drove to Jamberoo Valley a glorious spot settled in 1820. The town of Jamberoo has many century old churches and other beautiful stone buildings, which now contains antique shops and other modern boutiques. Back to the van and it was time for some housecleaning in the form of our awning, which was desperately in need of some TLC so no time like the present.

Wednesday 3^rd. Leaving Kiama with the sun shining it was hard to say good buy. We headed toward Canberra via Kangaroo Valley and I was a little nervous about the road and whether it is suitable for a van. The road is both pretty and dramatic with remnants of rainforest clinging to the steep escarpments.

The township of Kangaroo Valley boasts the oldest surviving suspension bridge in Australia built in 1898 and after looking over the side of the bridge I could only hope that it could take our weight because the drop was amazing. Heading up Barrengarry Mountain we stopped at Manning Lookout to view Fitzroy Falls.

Spectacular is the only word to describe the 81 meter vertical drop, which makes one very insignificant indeed. That night we stayed at the campground in Morton National Park near the town of Bundonoon and were able to enjoy the serenity of the bush at last.

Thursday 4^th . We are headed for Canberra and it is time to finish this blog for the present. I am looking forward to catching up with my family again and being in a city for a while. Hope everyone is enjoying good health and happiness. Hugs Elizabeth.

18^th News Letter.

Melbourne to Jindabyne.

To begin this newsletter I want to thank our friend Sue who lives on the Mornington Penincular for her wonderful hospitality and friendship. We arrived on her doorstep on the 22^nd January and stayed almost a week at her lovely property in Bitten. In that week we experienced much of what the Penincular has to offer, with its wineries, eateries and its beautiful coastline. We also managed a day trip to Philip Island, which is something that Ken has wanted to do for ages and of course an obligatory visit to the Motor Bike Racing Circuit. On to Point Grant to view the birds and then Cowes a very pretty coastal town, unfortunately we chose Australia Day to visit so it was very crowded indeed.

We have been to Melbourne on a couple of previous visits and we both really love the city. The shops and restaurants are fantastic and its fun to get caught up in the bustle along with everyone else. We had our car serviced in one of the outer suburb so caught the train into the city and back. Riding on the trains in cities makes you very aware of how multi cultural our country is, particularly Melbourne and Sydney.

Thursday 28^th January. After leaving Bitten we drove southeast on the Bass Highway and arrived in Wonthaggi at about lunchtime. We stopped into the Information centre in town to pick up some brochures on Wilson’s Promontory, as it is where we hoped to spend a few days. The drive into the Prom is spectacular with beautiful mountains and lush green growth; you really get the feeling you are in Tasmania or even parts of New Zealand. The campground at the Prom is called Tidal River Camp ground; and it’s a 46klm drive in from the entrance to the park. It’s a huge area with some 450 sites catering to all types of accommodation, however we were very surprised at how expensive the sights were, un powered was $24 a night and powered was $48, needless to say we went for the un powered site.

Saturday 29^th. Today we trekked some 6 klm of fairly steep terrain, but it was worth it as the views were wonderful and the weather was very kind. We are amazed at the growth of the bush considering the huge fire that went through this area two years ago. We have decided to stay for another day in this lovely place, just to enjoy being here and besides Ken has his heart set on climbing Mt Oberon but we will see what tomorrow brings.

Sunday 31^st. We left the Prom without climbing Mt Oberon because of yesterday’s inclement weather, heavy fog throughout the day. We drove to Foster which we found to be a lovely small country town and fortunately for us it just happened to have an art exhibition opening in the main street at lunch time, offering wine tasting and free sausage sizzle. Well what can you say we were in like Flynn! The park opposite the festivities has large flowerbeds but instead of growing flowers grows vegetables, lovely corn, celery, spinach, beetroot, cabbage and parsley and other assorted goodies. Apparently it’s a project designed for school children by Stephanie Alexander. What a great idea! Moving on to Port Albert, a lovely seaside village reported to be Victoria’s first established port in the mid-1800, it was a supply port for Gippsland pioneers. We were able to score a free camp right on the waters edge in the middle of town. Other grey Nomads joined us and it proved to be a popular spot.

Monday 1^st February. Stopped into Yarram for a few more supplies, just in case we might run out of something, as if. We turned east off the Gippsland Hwy to the small town of Seaspray, which was disappointing despite a colorful write up in the guidebooks. Moving on we followed the coast road that runs parallel to ninety-mile beach and ended up at Paradise Point which had come recommended as a great spot. At the end of Paradise Point there is a free camp area, which was able to accommodate us for the night. We arrived early enough to take a long walk on Ninety Mile Beach, which stretches from Lakes Entrance in the north to McLoughlins Beach in the south.

Tuesday 2^nd. Longford was the first place of interest for the day, as it lies at the junction of the Thompson and Latrobe Rivers. Here is located a spectacular nineteenth century unique Swing Bridge, designed to swing open for shipping to and from the Port of Sale. The bridge is built of steel construction with one long span mounted on cylindrical columns. The council has created some lovely park area around the bridge for families to come and enjoy. On to the city of Sale and it wasn’t too difficult to pick our Caravan Park out of a choice of two, or our other choice was the show grounds. Sale Motor Village is a lovely park with lots of space for vans amongst the trees. It’s also within walking distance to the shopping area and the movie theatre, so we decided to catch an evening movie with Bran Nue Dae. Its great to go to the movies and laugh from start to finish, however I must admit I didn’t realize before hand that it was a musical, so was a little confused at first.

Wednesday 3^rd. Ken’s resolve was to go boating on the Thompson River and as tempting as it is for me to ride in the tiny dingy on an uncomfortable seat with my head twisted around so I am not always looking backward, I resisted and stayed behind; yes I know I am strange. I actually had a great day by myself cooking, relaxing and watching T.V.

Thursday 4^th. Heading out of Sale we took the Princes Highway north to Strathford then turned east and headed to Hollands Landing, not a place I would recommend, a wee bit like the end of beyond. On our way back to the Princes Highway we came upon a roadside stall selling fresh vegetables so purchased spinach, beetroots, red onions and zucchinis, all very yummy. We noticed that the farmer had about 2-3 acres of fresh produce under cultivation, lucky neighbors. As we headed to Lakes Entrance I looked at suitable caravan parks for us to stay and found two pages of parks in the area. We did a few drive buys and were very disappointed with what we found then eventually we had to make a decision so we chose Echo Beach Tourist Park. We had great difficulty maneuvering our van around the small park, then we found the site we were allocated did not come near to fitting our van. Fortunately they were not busy so we took another site and moved on the next day.

Friday 5^th. It’s raining again which is not great for sight seeing however we have found another park on the outskirts of town, which suits the larger van. Eastern Beach Tourist Park offers much larger sites and is a newer and bigger park. Went into town and walked along the jetties looking at the boats discussing what type of boat we might buy when we get home, (would be nice).

Saturday 6^th. Have discovered that we have a tyre problem so will probably have to stay until Monday or Tuesday which is not all bad as the weather is awful. The weather eased enough for us to go for a walk over the footbridge that leads to the foreshore, then a 4klm hike to the ocean entrance of the lakes. I would imagine crossing the entrance would be very scary in bad conditions.

Sunday 7^th. Decided we had to get out of the caravan as cabin fever was setting in, so took a drive through the countryside. We arrived at a town called Metung nestled on a crescent peninsula reaching into Lake King, this town truly is a piece of heaven. The lakes and waterways that surround this town are crystal clear and very beautiful plus the town itself is stunningly picturesque. There are many beautiful craft galleries, cafés, restaurants etc unfortunately the town was very busy when we were there as it was Sunday and lunchtime. After a drive around the foreshore we have decided to come back tomorrow for a further look at this beautiful place. Next we moved on to Nicholson River Winery, which is a small picturesque boutique winery just outside the town of Nicholson. I have never tasted such beautiful Chardonnay in all of our travels, needless to say we bought a few bottles, in fact every wine we tried at this winery was delicious including a lovely Merlot. Because of the mild marine climate the Chardonnay has the longest ripening period in the world, I have to say it works for me.

Monday 8^th. Unfortunately last night I became quite ill again, so it was off to the doctor today for another opinion. We also ordered two new tyres for the car as the front tyres are becoming a problem.

Tuesday 9^th. The sun is shining “Hurray” at last. A drive into Bairnsdale to have the new tyres fitted was our first call, meanwhile I took the opportunity of visiting the local hospital to have blood tests. We ended up back at Metung for a late lunch and found a lovely small restaurant in the main street, which served a fantastic BLT sandwich, yum. We both think Metung is one of the most beautiful places we have seen on our trip so far, a fantastic place to retire to.

Wednesday 10^th. We are hoping to leave Lakes Entrance today but first I would like my blood test results. They should have been emailed to my Lakes Entrance doctor. Good results! We turned off the highway at Orbost and pulled into one of the many beautiful parks this town offers to have lunch. Orbost’s information centre is housed in the historic Slab Hut, a living museum, highlighting the region’s pioneer lifestyle.

After lunch we moved on to Marlo, a laid-back coastal village where the Snowy River ends its journey into the Tasman Sea. Twelve klm north we discovered Cape Conran and its surrounding national park, very beautiful coastal beaches and forested areas. We decided to move on to Mallacotta which is 24 klms off the Princes Highway and described as a picturesque lakeside village, endowed with beaches, blessed with navigable calm waterways and surrounded by bush. Quite a few caravan parks are scattered through-out the town however we decided on the council park, Mallacoota Foreshore Camp Park. Unfortunately the park was very crowded and I felt very restricted, no privacy what so ever, you might as well have been in a fish bowl. Not happy Reg.

Thursday 11^th. We decided on a late departure from the park so we could walk around the foreshore and it was lovely, but too short. We then took a drive to the southern most part of Mallacoota Inlet which is boarded by Croajingolong National Parkand and quickly decided that this was indeed a piece of heaven. There are lots of natural attractions here as well as a number of nature walks such as the Wilderness Coast Walk that extends over 100 klms, something to do before breakfast. What a shame its so cold here in the winter other wise it’s a place we both could see ourselves living. A quick stop for a look see at Gipsy Point which is the western most point of Mallacoota Inlet and a wonderful opportunity for a fishing or small boating enthusiast.

Heading back to the Princes Highway we turned north and quickly crossed the boarded into N.S.W. Actually I feel a wee bit sad, as I have really loved this part of Victoria with its beautiful waterways and lush green forests and parks. It surprises me to see green lawns and we are constantly commenting on it to each other because what we have experienced up to now, is an Australia which is very dry, with brown being the dominant color, not lush green. Eventually we rested our weary bones in Eden, a place that is bound with the traditions of the sea and the N.S.W. whaling industry. A lovely park called the Garden of Eden took our eye and the mighty Traveller came to rest for the evening along with her friend the Disco 3.

Friday 12^th. Unfortunately it is raining again today so we are taking it easy and checking our emails and doing washing, etc. A break in the weather and we are off with raincoats and umbrella at the ready, for a long awaited walk. Eden proves to be a beautiful hilly place with lots of great walking and cycling tracks, along with fantastic scenery over looking the Tasman Sea. Humpback and Southern Right whales during migration can easily be viewed from these hilly tracks. Eden Harbour is renowned for its deep water and we saw some large tugboats from both Sydney and Brisbane moored there. I presume they are used to help berth the large ships arriving at the timber Pulp Mill. By the time we got back to the van we had been walking for two hours so I for one was happy to sit down and rest.

Saturday 13^th. It’s gone from raining to pouring however it was time to leave this garden of Eden and move north to the beautiful town of Merimbula. I was so annoyed that the weather is so foul because the wee bit of scenery that we did see was stunning. On arriving in Merimbula we chose the largest caravan park in town probably because of its location, which is high on the northern headland. Merimbula Beach Holiday Park proved to be very busy with relatively small sites which means that to fit our van in we had to park at a 45deg angle, which is not always that comfortable. We had the awning out but for how long we ask, as the wind was howling and the rain torrential, fortunately the mighty Traveller was toasty and warm with no leaks; well none we know of anyway.

Sunday 14^th. Valentines day and there is no let up in the rain, however we made a decision to get out of the van and visit some attractions. The Merimbula Aquarium was our first stop and I was pleasantly surprised at the variety of fish and other sea life on display. Some 27 tanks in all, including one very large tank where you can experience being up close and personal with large Bream, Leatherjackets, Salmon, etc. I had spotted an artist’s work in one of the guidebooks for the area, so headed for the Boardwalk art gallery to look at her work. Tracy Creighton’s paintings are as colorful and vibrant as the person herself. Her gallery is underneath her home and was a delightful place to visit and experience the diversity of her work. She introduced us to her very handsome cat who’s breed is know as a Rag Doll, so named because of their ability to go limp when picked up. Yes I am very tempted to have one in my life, but not right now.

Monday 15^th. Pouring with rain again so we decided to stay put for the day and watch the winter Olympics, with the hope that tomorrow the rain will stop.

Tuesday 16^th. The sun is trying to shine and we are getting ready to leave this beautiful place unfortunately not having seen its many natural wonders. We were told that all the roads were open so we headed for Tathra via the coast road. Unfortunately the road from Tathra to Bega was not open due to a huge amount of water over the road so we had no option but to turn back to Merimbula. Before we did so we spotted a Swiss Bakery opposite Tathre beach and on entering the shop I thought I had died and gone to heaven. Sour Dough Bread in all shapes and sizes along with Rye Bread and other European delicacies. A far cry from the Australian version of bread that we have encountered in our travels which has been white, white and more white all tasting the same. Pastries adorned the showcases as my eyes wondered amongst such delights as Almond Cookies, Pecan Pies, and mouth-watering puff pastry, custard and fruit, (I just had to leave it alone).

We headed north to Bega via the Princes Highway and suddenly we were in what must be god’s own country. Green grassy hills with contented cows were everywhere; I could almost hear their satisfied mooing as we passed them by. We stopped in at the Bega Cheese factory to sample some of the contented cows cheese and came away with a couple examples of what Bega is famous fore. A few detours through town were necessary, because of the flooding, and then finally we were up in the hills heading for Cooma. The Bega Valley is such a beautiful place we stopped and took some photos hopefully we can include at least one with this text. Driving over the mountain range was a wonderful experience, with Brown Mountain offering spectacular views almost to the ocean. We decided to head straight for Jindabyne as it was getting late in the day so at about 6pm we arrived in a delightful park called Lake Jindabyne Holiday Park right on the lake.

Wednesday 17^th. The sun is shining and we are both in good spirits and love being in this place. Today is our day for sight seeing so a drive into Kosciuszko National Park was a must do. We headed up Kosciuszko Road through Wilsons Valley via Sponars Inn over Charlotte Pass then on to Perisher Valley. We were so lucky to have breathtaking views from a number of vantage points along the way, with beautiful blue skies overhead. Next we headed to Thredbo and a look-see around this almost deserted town. We found a small out of the way café and bought some lunch, which was yummy and also did some homework on chairlifts etc for our next days intended climb up Mt Kosciuszko.

Thursday 18^th. As we headed out I was feeling nervous as we planned on getting the chair lift from Threadbo up the mountain to Eagles Nest Mountain Hut and I am terrified of heights so did not know how I was going to react. The good news is I loved it and was not nervous in the slightest, (wonders will never cease). After reaching the Eagles Nest we embarked on the long trek up to the top of Mt. Kosciuszko on foot some 6.5 klms one way up hill. It was a challenge but worth the effort once at the top, providing magnificent 360 deg. views. Fortunately we bought some lunch with us because we needed some fuel for the 6.5 klms trip back down the mountain.

The chairlift down from Eagles Nest Mountain Hut was wonderful as it afforded us a brilliant view of the valley below. On our arrival back at Threadbo I could hardly put one foot in front of another with stiffness in every joint however after a coffee and a sit down I was almost back to normal. Today I have truly had one of the best days of my life. Tomorrow is a rest day so I am going to enjoy doing as little as possible.

This newsletter has to end somewhere as it’s becoming painfully long, so this would be a good place to stop. I have enjoyed this last part of our journey immensely and I am sure there are many reasons why, not least of all that we will be back in our house in a couple of months. I also so love a green Australia; dry brown earth reminds me of my childhood in western N.S.W. with the flies and the heat, what you would call a sunburnt country. I think by now there are not too many readers of my blog left, as its been a long 12 months and you all have your own interesting lives. To those of you who are still reading I hope you are well and happy and life is being kind. Hugs to you all. Elizabeth.

17^th Newsletter

Adelaide to Melbourne

I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas and a great start to the New Year. We arrived back in Adelaide from our time out in Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast on the 3^rd January to find our van and car safe and sound. Thank you to all of our friends who welcomed us into their homes over Christmas and New Year. After picking up the van we headed back to Levi Caravan Park, then basically just stocked up on supplies before leaving town. We have both enjoyed Adelaide immensely and love the beautiful old sandstone buildings that grace this city. We also visited Adelaide hills, particularly picturesque Stirling where I spent a year or two in my youthful twenties; it’s an absolutely beautiful place. Adelaide is however a lot dryer than I remember, but of course this could well be selective memory.

Monday 4^th January. We caught up with friends Lee-Anne and John for a lovely dinner at their new home on Monday evening, they have recently moved from Sydney to Adelaide. We met them way back in Derby when we all just happened to be on the same Horizontal Waterfall adventure and have kept in touch; It was great to catch up with them again.

Tuesday 5^th. Left Levi Park and drove to the Central markets in the City of Adelaide, just love the atmosphere of this busy commercial place. We bought some lovely Olives, Cheeses and yummy breads, plus a few other essentials for the next part of our adventure. Traveling south of Adelaide re enforced just how dry this area is, with rolling golden brown grassy hills. McLaren Vale proved to be a small sleepy town with its roots in wineries. Its Caravan Park allowed us a shady spot with a very rural feel, unfortunately it was the peak of the school holidays so we expected lots of families with noisy children and we were not disappointed.

Wednesday 6^th. We visited Rosemont cellar door, a busy large commercial place that regularly accommodates busloads of people. Next Samuel’s Gorge a small boutique winery in a heritage building run by the wine maker Justin McNamee, worth a visit if only for the atmosphere. Literally across the road is Chappel Hill a winery which many of us have sampled a bottle or two of their wines, as they are available in most liquor outlets. Chappel Hill not only offers wines for the tasting but also cooking classes and accommodation for up to 20 guests. My comment to the owners/managers is to put more staff on over the holiday period as the poor lady who was working was run off her feet and quite frankly the load she was carrying was not fair on one staff member. Coriole Vineyards was our next call, the cellar door is a beautiful old heritage building with the most stunning views of the valley, graciously we were served by a gorgeous young lady who was passionate about the wines she was offering. This vineyard produces a very nice Sauvignon Blanc and also a nice Chardonnay. Kay Bros was next and we enjoyed a rare Muscat to the tune of $60 a bottle, a nice drop indeed. We rounded up again for yet another cellar door and this time it was Settlement Wines, a very contemporary building with a lovely Chardonnay on offer.

Thursday 7^th. After leaving the van at the Caravan Park we drove to Aldinga Beach in the morning, then on down via the coast road to Sellicks Beach, over some beautiful rolling hills to Myponga Beach, Carrickalinga and Normanville. We found ourselves at Cape Jervis at lunch time so sat on the back of the Land Rover enjoying our sandwiches while watching the ferry bound for Kangaroo Island being loaded. On to Victor Harbor we traveled through lovely pine forests, which was such a nice change from the dry fields we had so far become used to. Victor Harbor is a very popular holiday destination for many South Australians. Its surf, clear waters and white sand beaches offer much to families on a summer break. It also has an abundance of early colonial architecture, lovely old pubs, cafes and restaurants. On to Port Elliot, a model seaside village, renowned for its cafes, pubs and gift shops, a lovely town full of character. Goolwa was once a thriving commercial river port being the last town on the River Murray before it reached the Southern Ocean, however now it is a busy regional tourist centre and gateway to the Coorong National Park. On our way back to McLaren Vale, we stopped at Shingleback Cellar door where we purchased a case of Classic Dry White at an exceptional price.

Friday 8^th. We were told it was about to warm up and they were right. By 10am it was 40 deg c and getting hotter by the minute. We decided to head for a large shopping centre to look at purchasing another phone as the one we had was becoming unreliable. Collanades Shopping Complex, Noarlunga, proved to be the closest so off we went. I spotted a Myers and found some shorts that would fit into our life style very well so made a purchase, while Ken did homework on a new mobile phone. We also decided to take in a movie, as the weather outside was unbearable, so found ourselves in a theatre watching It’s Complicated a very funny and enjoyable movie. On our way back to the van (not to miss an opportunity) we stopped in to Maxwell Celler door and sampled some Mead. It is such an unusual drink that I just had to buy a bottle. Mead is made from honey and is delicious served over ice.

Saturday 9^th. In order to stay in the caravan park we had to move positions, which was not a big hassle, but the temperature was no different than the day before and therefore most everything was an effort. Oh, for an air-conditioned winery! Shattesbrook Winery had come highly recommended and we were not disappointed by the service and variety of wines that were on offer. Next and just around the bend was Dog Ridge cellar door which appeared to be open as we were able to walk in, but no one at home and we were too polite to help ourselves to the booty. Eventually we walked out and drove away so maybe if you do decide to go to this winery it would be wise to make an appointment. Hugo Winery was a different proposition as the gentleman behind the bar was a most hospitable host and we enjoyed some very nice wines in a lovely atmosphere. Wirra Wirra Winery had come recommended by a friend so we thought we should make this our second last winery for the day. The building itself is very interesting, a large contemporary building with a most unusual fence made from large trees. The service was fairly ordinary as were the wines but to be honest it was so busy that I am not sure how it could have been any different apart from don’t go there on a weekend. We then headed back into McLaren Vale and stopped by Hardy’s Tintara Cellar door and enjoyed a couple of whites while Ken enjoyed a few reds. A very well informed young vintner behind the bar shared his local knowledge of the area.

Sunday 10^th. As we drove out of the caravan park we noted it was 42 deg c at 10am, just a tad warm even for us Queenslanders. We decided to go back to the shopping centre and purchase the mobile phone that had been so heavily researched two days prior but interestingly enough not purchased at that stage. Back into the car and heading out of town we had to back track quite a bit and found ourselves wandering through Happy Valley, then Clarendon, Meadows and on to Strathalbyn. It was such a picturesque way to go however the roads were quite narrow, windy and very steep and may I say many times I gripped the arm rests and suggested Ken might like to slow down. This always received the usual response which is ‘there is no problem’, and as I always say ‘no problem for you but there is for me’. We stopped at Strathalbyn for lunch but it was so hot I was not game to go into the van so chose a small bakery and purchased a spinach roll. Langhorne Creek was our next town then on to Wellington and across the ferry to Meningie. We were hoping that Lake Albert would be suitable for Ken to do some sailing but sadly the water has receded quite a bit and the remains are very muddy and quite saline. Lake Albert Caravan Park offered a pretty spot beside said lake however the day was very hot and by the time I opened the van it was 45 deg c inside. Sitting outside in the shade proved to be a cooler option so left the van closed up with the air conditioner on full for several hours.

Monday 11^th. At 9.45am the temperature was 42 deg c and we are wondering how much longer this will go on. From Meningie to the Victorian border the coastline is called the Limestone Coast. As we head south we had flat lands on our left and salt flats on our right, very dry uninteresting country. The good news however was the drop in temperature as the clouds began rolling in, with the temperature dropping to a cool 26 deg c by lunchtime. Pulling into Kingstone we read up on the attractions this town had to offer, with the last attraction being ‘fish and chips’. Unfortunately they must believe the tourists are deranged, because the prices they charge for their seafood is just outrageous. A walk out to the end of the town jetty is a must despite the smell of rotting seaweed that lines the beach, and also a visit to the historic Cape Jaffa Lighthouse now relocated ashore in the town centre. On to Cape Jaffa and by this stage the weather had turned nasty and very windy. From here we went inland to Mt Benson and stopped along the way to sample yet more of the fine wines South Australia has to offer. Cape Jaffa Wines was an interesting experience offering a lovely Chardonnay along with a stainless Steel Wine cooler for a very good price, just a little something I have always wanted. Ralph Fowler wines offered some very nice tasting and a wealth of information from Ralph’s wife as she generously offered us her time and knowledge. As we headed further south the temperature dropped even more and was then a cool 16 deg c, time for the coats to come out. Robe proved to be a busy place full of tourists so we picked the park we felt we would be most comfortable in and that was Robe Lakeside Tourist Park. We arrived early enough for a walk through town and then a drive up to Cape Dombey to watch the sun go down. Robe struck us as a very pretty town that caters mainly for the tourist, I am sure in the winter months this town is very quiet indeed.

Tuesday 12^th. It’s raining and miserable and a cool 16 deg c, quite a change from yesterday morning. We passed Lake Eliza, Lake St. Clair and Lake George on our right, sadly they lack water and are a poor representation of their former glory. Beachport is a lovely town that has white sand beaches on one side and wild rugged coastline on the other. There are spectacular views along Bowman Scenic drive but unfortunately pulling a caravan the size of the Traveller stopped us short, however what we did see from the window of the car was wonderful. Our next stop was Millicent and then on through beautiful pine forests to Penola. Our first glance at Penola’s caravan park was one of disbelief, as we have never seen a ‘park’ in such state of disrepair in all of our travels. We decided to press on through town and experience some wineries. Our first Coonawarra winery experience was Yalumba ‘The Menzies’, and we were most impressed with the warm welcome we received, not to mention the delicious wines we were able to savior. Next was Wynns Coonawarra Estate, which I believe to be the oldest in the district. This is a very big and busy winery that offers the unique opportunity to ‘make your own blend’; what a shame we were too late to take advantage of the offer. Moving on to find a place to park the van, we decided to put a few more kilometers in and drive north to Naracoorte Caves National Park. It’s a National Park that offers the camper several options, for us it offered a clean flat slab with power and water and a great view. The amenities block is very clean with a washing machine costing $2 a load and a free dryer, now you can’t beat that for $21 a night. We were very happy with this spot except for the feral neighbors that behaved badly speaking very loudly and abusively until well after 3.30am. The loud neighbors certainly got it from other campers and rangers later in the morning.

Wednesday 13^th. we got up late and decided on a long walk, as we were not under pressure to leave by 10am. Firstly we walked up to the ranger station to have a chat about feral neighbors and then on to the limestone cliffs. Back to the van for brunch and then packed up and headed south to sample more wines on our way to Mt Gambier. Blok Estate took my fancy and I am so glad we did stop by and the white wines at this vineyard are beautiful. The 2006 Reisling is to die for and the 2008 Chardonnay was not to be scoffed at either, I left with a bottle of the chardonnay. Hollick Wines was next; unfortunately their white wines were few for the tasting. On to Coonawarra Wine Gallery to taste one of my favorite makers of Chardonnay, Jamison Run. A very pleasant hostess treated us to some delicious samples and some entertaining conversation, then onward to Mt Gambier and the Blue Lake Holiday Park.

Thursday 14^th. After a great night’s sleep we felt invigorated enough for a walk around the Blue Lake. Mt Gambier is known as the Blue Lake city, the lake being the city water supply (containing 36,000 million litres with an average depth of 70 meters) is famous for its annual colour change from steel grey in winter to a brilliant turquoise blue in summer. Blue Lake is part of the Crater Lakes complex comprising four craters. The views are spectacular and there are several look outs located on the 3.6 klm walking trail that circumnavigates the rim of the crater. I spent the rest of the day catching up on my writing while Ken continued on the walking trails that led him to a second volcano crater. Late in the afternoon we took a drive into the centre of the town to visit The Cave Gardens, one of the sunken gardens that this city is also famous for.

Friday 15th. On our way out of town we visited Umpherston Sinkhole which was created as a result of the roof of the chamber falling to the floor of the cave, creating a perfect environment for its ‘sunken garden’, this spectacular terraced garden is open at all times, day and night. Heading south we found a lovely small village of Port MacDonnell where I was able to twist Ken’s arm regarding Fish and Chips for lunch. Heading east after lunch we very soon crossed the boarder into Victoria and it was time to change the clocks yet again. The countryside had taken a huge change for the better and now rich paddocks of hay and dairy cattle surrounded us. How quickly this country can change. Nelson was the next town that took Ken’s fancy mainly because of the Glenelg River, which meanderers its way through the lower Glenelg National Park. We found Kywong Caravan Park which suited us very well and left the van for a walk into town and back, some 2 klm or more.

Saturday 16^th. Ken was itching to set sail in his small dingy however decided to motor instead because of the fluky winds. He was gone for several hours and had a wonderful time as the story goes. For my part I enjoyed tweaking some of my stories plus having some new ideas on what could come next with my writing.

Sunday 17^th. It’s our first born son’s birthday. I am sorry we are not able to share it with him in person. It was very windy and cold as we headed out of Nelson for Portland. However it was lovely to see so many beautiful dairy cattle looking as fat and happy as can be. We did a wee bit of shopping in Portland, just the essentials that always cost $70 or so and then headed out for we did not know where. After a few wrong turns we had lunch at Fitzroy River Reserve then pressed on to the very small village of Yambuk. We found our way out of town to Yambuk Caravan Park perched high on a hill over looking Yambuk Lake. The weather conditions were foul, windy as hell and rainsqualls coming through every few minutes. Eventually we ventured out for a walk on the beach rugged up in out winter woolies having to put fabric over our mouths to keep the sand out. A nice baked dinner was the order for the evening meal, at least it kept the van warm.

Monday 18^th. Continuing our move east we arrived in Port Fairy and what a beautiful town it is. The Moyne River runs through the town and is lined with boardwalks and jetties. Beautiful cottages align the foreshore very reminiscent of an English seaside village. Port fairy is steeped in character and history and possibly the most beautiful town that I have experienced in our travels so far. Despite the many caravan parks we decided not to stay so moved some 30 klms down the road to Warrnombool, which was very disappointing indeed. The caravan parks in this town were overcrowded and very expensive so after several drive buys we moved on to the next small town Allansford that has a very nice park with plenty of room however it did cost us $36 a night which we find expensive.

Tuesday 19^th. I decided to attack the washing despite the inclement weather so all clothes had to be put in the dryer, which takes forever. We drove back into Warrnombool to have a look around without the van, Ken had the notion he wanted to visit the Maritime Museum however on further inspection decided against it. We picked up a few must have grocery items before leaving town then went back and picked up the van. We then drove southeast on to Nirranda and the beautiful ocean vista of Bay of Islands. Unfortunately there weren’t a lot of opportunities to stop along the road as the wagon train is too long and doesn’t always fit in the vista turnouts. After a quick drive through Peterborough we headed to Port Campbell, which we remembered from a previous visit. The caravan park unfortunately was charging $45 per night for a powered site so we decided to move on to a park in Princetown that charged $20 per night for a powered site. We found it in our Camps 4 book. Good value for money.

Wednesday 20^th. Today we backtracked solo to Port Campbell and beyond to see Curdles Inlet and The Grotto. Then we stopped at London Bridge, The Arch, Sentinel Rock, Loch Ard Gorge, and the 12 Apostles (now really only 10). What a spectacular coastline this is and despite seeing it once before, it still takes your breath away at how wonderful nature is. Back to the van and a phone call to our tenants in regard to a vacating date.

Thursday 21^st. It’s a much warmer day with the sun shining and the wind factor minimal. We left Princetown and continued east on the Great Ocean Road. It is a lovely forest drive as the road twists through Great Otway National Park and then back down to the ocean at Glenaire and Apollo Bay. We stopped at Apollo Bay for lunch and unfortunately chose a meat pie from one of the bakeries there, not such a good decision. Apollo Bay was crowded with no room at the Inn so to speak. All the caravan parks and any other accommodation for that matter were full to overflowing and charging unbelievable prices. This was to become a familiar story in each town as we continued on this beautiful drive. Eventually we ended up after several phone calls at Riverglen Holiday Park in Geelong, which was pleasant enough for one night.

Friday 22^nd. We left Geelong and traveled the coast road along Corio Bay enjoying the beautiful old majestic homes that grace this Bay. We then met up with The Princes Highway heading northeast until we got to Werribee where we turned off hoping to view Werribee Park mansion that was built in 1870. After a visit to the local Information centre we headed out to the park and visited the magnificent rose garden that is part of the grounds. Over 5,000 roses displayed to perfection within four uniquely shaped designs. We are lucky enough to be visiting when the roses are in their prime. We did not however tour the mansion as the entrance fee seemed a little steep to us and it was time to move on. Continuing on the Princes Highway we headed into Melbourne and drove through the city to find St Kilda Road and our way out of town. We headed south down through Frankston to The Mornington Peninsula to visit with our friends.

As I write this it is cold and windy and I am having difficulty believing that it is Summer. Recently it has been confirmed our house will be vacant midway through April, so it is our resolve to make our way slowly north over the next two months. I do hope it warms up again other wise we will feel we have not had a summer this year. I hope this finds everyone well and enjoying the first part of the New Year. Best wishes to you all, love Elizabeth.